Recipes For Disaster

Oaxaca Forever

Posted on September 18, 2015 by RecipesforDisaster

This year I spent my birthday on an airplane, but I didn’t mind, because that plane was headed to Oaxaca. My aunt is helping me work on a special project (to be revealed soon), and we thought it would be our best chance to get together there and meet some producers. I have been to Oaxaca many times, and it holds a very special place in my heart, as well as for my family. We have had some great moments there together, and it is always a pleasure to go back, for whatever reason. And I seem to always invent a good reason! I arrived very late the first night, and my aunt and her friend Cynthia were waiting for me at Casa Crespo. They have a lovely restaurant and make artisanal chocolates, with a myriad of flavors that are interesting and delicious. I love their hot chocolate with anise. Hot chocolate is one of the things that you have to drink and take back with you if you go there. Oaxaca is famous in Mexico for its hot chocolate, and there are plenty of companies that make it there. You can even make your own molienda with the proportions of cacao, sugar, cinnamon, and almonds that you would like to have. Just know that the freshly ground chocolate will harden, so you have to mold it within a couple of hours. And go for the bitter varieties, as the traditional versions tend to be on the sweeter side.

It was in Oaxaca that I discovered my favorite drink, a Margarita de Mezcal con Tamarindo. It can be ordered in various ways, and most restaurants in Oaxaca have a mezcal-based cocktail with fruit choices, so you don’t have to go through the trouble of saying “margarita de mezcal”. However, in other places you might have to explain more thoroughly. It was in Tulum that I discovered this, as I asked for my drink and caused a lot of a confusion for the barmen. Eventually, I got freshly pounded tamarind, seeds and all, in the most amazing version of this cocktail, which was very delicious, and shows the extent of how great Mexican service is. They told me it was a “margarita de mezcal con tamarindo”, and it has worked ever since. Below is my cocktail from Los Danzantes, my favorite restaurant in Oaxaca. This cocktail there is call “Los Danzantes”. That is worm salt lining the rim, by the way. Enough said.

Mezcal con Tamarindo

We also ate a few Tlayudas, which are unique to Oaxaca, and you will have a very hard time finding in other parts of the country. It is basically a large, flat cornmeal based disc (like a large tostada), topped with lard, meat or fish of choice, cheese, lettuce, salsas, etc. At Los Danzantes, we had this amazing shrimp one with a delicious salsa and beans. They folded it over, which is why it doesn’t look like a large, flat disc, as I just described. Below is a photo of another one that we had at a cute cafe, this time with carnitas.

Tlayuda with Shrimp at Los Danzantes

Tlayuda in Oaxaca

We also had an amazing meal at Casa Oaxaca. You don’t just eat at Casa Oaxaca, you learn, you discover, you grow. I never feel over-indulged there, because despite the richness of the experience, you feel like you are part of this amazing act of food culture. They use so many local ingredients and work with small farms from the area. Half of the things on the menu I have never heard of before, and I love discovering new chile peppers, herbs, salsas, and preparations. It is such a great pleasure to see that amount of care and quality going into a dish; it reminds me of why I love food and cooking. I didn’t take photos of every dish (I really don’t love doing it!), but I did sneak a shot of this tableside tomato salsa that they prepared in a molcajete in front of us. I know that they do this all the time with guacamole here, but the tomato salsa was just so simple, and just the perfect detail.

Salsa de Molcajete

These were my lovely companions. We had a lot of fun! This is us in front of Santo Domingo Cathedral.

In front of Santo Domingo.

Roasted Poblano Dressing

Posted on November 26, 2014 by RecipesforDisaster

I came up with this Roasted Poblano Dressing for our new Si Por Favor salad that we are serving at Victory Garden NYC. The salad offers a simple, yet wonderful combination of contrasting textures and colors: bitter kale, creamy avocado, sharp feta, sweet corn, crispy radishes, and smooth black beans. I wanted to create a dressing that was warming, gently spiced, and, most of all, comforting. I use nutritional yeast to give it that nice salty/cheesy flavor without adding cream or additional cheese to the dressing, allowing the feta to be the main star. Poblanos are easy to find in most grocery stores. This dressing is vegan, so feel free to use it on roasted veggies, etc.

Roasted Poblano Dressing

2 Poblano peppers roasted, peeled, and seeded

1/2 cup cashews, soaked in water for 4 hours

1/2 cup water, or as necessary

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

3 tablespoons nutritional yeast

1-2 pinches of garlic powder

1-2 pinches cumin

1/4 cup olive oil

1 1/2 Tablespoons cider vinegar

Roast the Poblanos over an open gas flame until charred and blistered all over, or in 375 degree oven for about 15 -20 minutes or until blistered. Put directly into a bowl covered with a towel or plastic wrap and let sit another 15 minutes. Once cool enough to handle, peel the peppers and remove the seeds.

Meanwhile, put the cashews in a blender and start to blend with as little water as possible. Allow them to break up and become a smooth paste, only adding about 1/2 cup of water, or slightly more if you need to keep the mixture moving with the blade of the blender. Add the poblanos and the rest of the ingredients and blend until smooth. Pour in a little bit of water if you want to loosen it up a bit.

Makes about 1 1/2 cups.

Pozole Moctezuma

Posted on November 14, 2014 by RecipesforDisaster

My aunt Isabel had been telling me about this amazing pozole restaurant in Mexico City for some time, and I had it on my “to-do” list for my last trip there. I did not grow up eating a lot of pozole, besides for the breakfast that follows dinner at a wedding where you dance until the morning. Rather, I got in the habit of eating the dish here in NYC a few years ago. I have since moved downtown, but when I was living in the Upper East Side, I would get it at Sabor a Mexico II on 77th between 2nd and 3rd. All winter long I would order this soup, especially if I felt even the slightest hint of a cold coming on. Pozole is a Mexican soup that comes green or red, with chicken or pork, but there are variations of it, and I am not exactly sure if there are any rules. The common thread is that it has pozole, a large and puffy type of corn that we call hominy here in the US. It is fun to eat because the kernel is large and spongy- I watch my niece pick them out of her soup with delight. The version I order here from Sabor a Mexico is green and comes with chicken. It seemed to have tomatillos and lots of oregano in it, but I learned that in Mexico green pozole usually has pepitas (pumpkin seeds) and not tomatillos. When I told my employee, who is from Oaxaca, that we were going to be making a green pozole at Victory Garden she was shocked. She only knew pozole to be red. Hence, I don’t really think there are any rules besides that it normally comes with either chicken or pork, and can be green or red. It is always really filling, and the broth can heal you from whatever the universe send your way.

We had spent the day in the Centro of Mexico City at Bellas Artes before heading over to Pozole Moctezuma. The restaurant is located behind the Plaza Garibaldi, and you would not be able to find it even if you were trying. There is no sign on the outside, only a handwritten name placard next to the buzzer. The other buzzers were last names, and one of them was for “constellation” therapies. However, there is a little parking lot across the street that fills up with cars every afternoon around 3pm with people coming in for their lunch, and a parking lot attendant to take care of everything.

Half the week they make red pozole, and half the week they make green pozole. We went on a Thursday, which meant green. The only options they gave us for ordering were what type of pork we wanted, and if we wanted sardines with it or not. They brought a whole avocado on a plate with a knife, a side plate of chicharron, some sardines, limes, and a spoonful of mezcal to pour in to cut the fat. It was rich, with the pepitas thickening the delicious pork broth. The chicharron added the crunch, the sardines added a little bit of salt, and the mezcal and limes blended in beautifully to tame down the richness. I dreamt of this dish afterwards for days. It was so harmonious, with all of the textures, depth, and layers of flavor that one seeks in Mexican cuisine. I washed it down with a Paloma (with only a tiny hint of guilt).

At the end, we were talking with the proprietor, who happened to go to school with my aunt’s husband’s brother. He had some jars of products that they made there in the kitchen. I purchased a jar of Alacranes, habaneros fried in olive oil, to take home with me. They are the most amazing condiment I have ever purchased. . . I will let them be the subject of another blog post.

In the meantime, if you would like to try some pozole here in New York, we make it every Saturday at Victory Garden at 31 Carmine Street. Call ahead to make sure (212) 206-7273. Otherwise, you can go to Pozole Moctezuma in Mexico City.

Margaritas!!

Posted on May 7, 2014 by RecipesforDisaster

I am not going to make any more excuses for not keeping up with this blog of mine as much as I would like to. I am running a full fledged ice cream store in NYC, so I have come to terms with only being able to update this when I can. The other night I was fully inspired to write an entry, but now that I am writing, it is clear to me that there are about 3 entries that will need to follow. The first one is about margaritas. I have a hard time following recipes in general, but there is a Mexican cookbook that I have been loving for almost a year now, and it has been very worth my while to follow the instructions. It is called Amor y Tacos by Deborah Schneider, and I have made quite a few of her recipes. I have also loved reading through her dichos and anecdotes. Anyway, her Margaritas Sol recipe is killer, and I have made it twice very recently. Both times they were received with “these are the best margaritas that I have ever tasted”. That statement, coming from 30 year old women who drink a lot of margaritas, is a pretty major compliment. They are really well balanced with acidity and alcohol- they are just perfect. I opt out of the salted rim, and garnish with some sliced orange and a nasturtium blossom.

Ceviche de Toronja

Posted on December 10, 2010 by RecipesforDisaster

Ceviche de Toronja

My grandmother brought me home the latest O magazine the other day, and in the recipe section I found this amazing photo of a blood orange salsa. I tore it out and stuck it on the fridge for us to make the next day. I didn’t copy the recipe exactly, because the photo was inspiration enough. We had just received 1/2 bushel of grapefruits and oranges from The Orange Shop in Citra, Florida, and we had the rest of the ingredients in the fridge. I segmented 1 grapefruit and 2 clementines (a bit tricky, but we had to use them up!), working over the serving bowl to catch the juices. Then I added the seeds of about 1/4 pomegranate; 1/2 an avocado, diced; 1 handful of cilantro, roughly chopped; 1/4 of a red onion, thinly sliced; and 1/2 a jalapeno pepper, thinly sliced. I seasoned it with salt, 1 tablespoon of honey, and a squeeze of lemon. The juices collect at the bottom of the bowl, and the “ceviche” marinates itself as it sits. We ate this with a special chicken dish I will share one day, along with sweet potato. My grandmother thinks it would be the perfect bed for any type of fish ceviche, and I agree. The combination of grapefruit and pomegranate is rare, but they compliment each other perfectly.

Buen Provecho!

Shiso Salsa Cruda

Posted on August 5, 2010 by RecipesforDisaster

Shiso Salsa Cruda

My mother often thinks of me when she goes to the market and brings me home veggies and fruits that she knows I will like. The other day she went to the Farmers Market at the Hill Stead Museum in Farmington, CT and brought me tomatillos and serrano peppers. We have found that many serrano peppers grown locally are not as spicy as the ones in Mexico. She promised that these were really spicy, and that I should make a Salsa Cruda with them. Salsa Cruda is a raw salsa, in which the tomates (tomatillos in English) are not roasted before being blended. I went through my fridge and found that I had a ton of herbs, except the only one that I was missing was cilantro. I didn’t want to have to go out and buy cilantro, but at the same time, I didn’t want to stray too far from what I wanted. I ended up adding the Japanese herb shiso, which is also known as perilla and sesame leaf. It has a flavor that combines mint, basil, and fennel in very slight undertones. It is fun to cook with, and I have also mentioned it as a possible taco shell. I absolutely loved the shiso in the salsa cruda. One would never think that it was replacing cilantro as a main ingredient; it came through as a perfect match for the tomatillos and serrano. I poured it over my black beans and was in heaven. I promise you that Shiso Salsa Cruda will be a favorite summer salsa for time eternal! To make the salsa, blend together a dozen tomatillos, 2 serranos (you can use more or less, according to your taste in spice), 1 clove garlic, a tablespoon or two of olive oil, and salt to taste. You will have about 2 cups of salsa, which should last about a week in the fridge. Use over hard-boiled eggs, with black beans, stirred into hummus, atop quesadillas, and of course with chips. !Buen provecho!

Mango and Rhubarb with Yogurt and Pistachio

Posted on May 5, 2010 by RecipesforDisaster

Rhubarb does not exist in Mexico, but that does not mean that Mexicans in the US can’t adopt it into their recipes and dishes. The other day I was thinking about how strawberries and rhubarb go so well together. The sweetness of the strawberries, paired with the sour tang of the rhubarb compliment each other beautifully. Mangoes are all over the place these days and they are all so sweet and delicious. I try to eat as locally as possible, but sometimes I simply cannot resist a juicy mango! I thought that the sweetness of the mango would be a nice match for the tart rhubarb, and I was right. I stewed rhubarb with a little sugar, and served it with goat milk yogurt, mint, toasted and chopped pistachios, and mango slices. Originally, the idea has been to chop the mint very finely and make it so that it was a mint yogurt, but I was so hungry when I was making this, that I completely forgot about that detail! Anyway, here is the yogurt cup that I made. I hope you enjoy the mango rhubarb combination as well!

Goat Milk Yogurt Swirled with Cajeta and Berries

Posted on March 30, 2010 by RecipesforDisaster

Over the past couple of years I have gotten really into goat milk, and have fallen in love with goat milk yogurts from different farmers in the region. I love them all- some are runnier and more liquid- perfect for mixing with cereal and granola. Others are thick and creamy- perfect for topping with fruits and nuts- and eating as a dessert instead of ice cream or custard.

All of the plain local yogurts I have tried have a slight tang that is to die for. And I love when that slight tang is accentuated by the addition of something sweet, not to mask it, but to dance with it in the preparation. I find that cajeta does just that- it mambos with the yogurt. Cajeta is a Mexican goat milk caramel, made by boiling down goat milk with sugar for a long period of time, until it becomes thick and caramelized. I love cajeta on ice cream, but only recently did I discover how delicious it is with tangy yogurt. Now, instead of adding honey, I simply swirl in a spoonful of cajeta, and top with berries and nuts. It is absolutely delicious and incredibly satisfying.

“Cebollitas”: The Easiest and Most Delicious Condiment Ever

Posted on January 8, 2010 by RecipesforDisaster

As far as I know, there is no name for this condiment, so I will just call it by its adopted nickname, “Las Cebollitas”. My uncle Brian is responsible for its creation. He lives in Baja California Sur, Mexico and is a big foodie. He is also what I call an “occurrista“. An occurrista is someone who gets an idea of a flavor that they want to eat, and then puts together a whole meal based on whatever that craving was. They aren’t necessarily cooks, but they know how to get what they want and need into their mouths. They aren’t satisfied with something that is given to them either, they must doctor everything up somehow by adding this or that.

Las Cebollitas

I think this is how this amazing condiment came about. He made it in the kitchen while we were waiting for lunch one day, as he normally enters 30 minutes before the meal is served and fixes something up based on what he sees around him. All of us fell in love with these “Cebollitas“, or onions, and starting adding them to our condiment spread at meals. All you do is thinly slice a white onion, either in half moons, or quartered moons, so that they are as thin as paper. Place them in a small bowl and add thinly sliced jalapeno peppers, seeds and all. Pour over some lime juice and olive oil and season with salt. The quantities are based on your own taste, but you will need about 2 limes for 1/4 of an onion, and about 1 tablespoon olive oil or so. I really can’t imagine measuring the amounts, because an occurrista wouldn’t, and this is an occurrista‘s recipe.

This is great over grilled fish, chicken, and meat. It goes well in burritos, on tacos, as a garnish on veggies or soups.

Quesadilla de Atun- A Mexican Tuna Melt

Posted on December 25, 2009 by RecipesforDisaster

Every year we celebrate Christmas and New Years in Los Cabos, Baja California. My uncle and aunt moved here when they were recently married, and we have all been coming out to visit them for so long, that now it is like a second home to me. I really love being here. Even though there is a lot to do, the best moments are when the whole family is together and we just do nothing.

Tuna and marlin are big here in Cabo, and many people visit the peninsula just for the sport fishing that is available. There are also amazing bass, clams, scallops, and abalone. As you can tell, it is all about fish here. While we are here, we usually just stick to fish tacos from Tacos Rossi, homemade ceviche, and sushi. The sushi here is the best that I have ever had. The Mexican ingredients (cilantro, chile, avocado, mango), combined with the freshness of the fish, compliment the Japanese technique perfectly.

Tuna Melt a lo Mexicano

On a recent fishing trip this past Fall, my uncle caught 23 tuna with a friend who was visiting. They ate the fresh tuna for a week straight and froze the rest for the Winter. So yesterday for lunch my aunt made a fresh tuna salad in which she boiled the tuna in water and then mixed it with onion, celery, salt, pepper, and little bit of mayonnaise. The result was delicious- no canned tuna can compare to the real deal. We had a big tub of this tuna salad in our fridge, and there was no way I was going to leave the house for lunch today. I forgot to mention along the way that I am a tuna freak. I decided to make a Mexican-style tuna melt. I don’t usually eat tuna melts in the States, because I am very picky about how my tuna salad is prepared, and I dislike greasy sandwiches. But today I obviously found myself in a very unique situation. We had freshly made flour tortillas in the fridge (Mexico rocks) and cheese galore, and I knew that nothing could go wrong. So I heated up a tortilla in a pan and put a few pieces of thinly sliced Manchego cheese on top. Mexican manchego is different than the manchego from Spain, as it is much milder and easier to melt. I kept the heat low, so that the tortilla would not become hard, but that the cheese would melt. Then I spooned on the tuna salad, and finally added thinly sliced tomatoes and a little bit of avocado to top it off.

My parents and sister were not going to eat lunch at home, they were going to get fish tacos from Rossi. But right as I was putting everything away they arrived at the house hungry. I made the tuna quesadillas for everyone, and they all had 2. My dad said it was better than a fish taco, and even said that I should sell them! He is my biggest fan. I wanted to post this, because you can all poach your own fresh tuna at home and make this same thing, or you can use canned tuna and make your own tuna salad. The point is that it is a fun Mexican riff on an American classic. I would be curious to know what types of cheeses people use for these, and what other things they think go well in them.

!Buen Provecho!