Filed under: Recipes
As far as I know, there is no name for this condiment, so I will just call it by its adopted nickname, “Las Cebollitas”. My uncle Brian is responsible for its creation. He lives in Baja California Sur, Mexico and is a big foodie. He is also what I call an “occurrista“. An occurrista is someone who gets an idea of a flavor that they want to eat, and then puts together a whole meal based on whatever that craving was. They aren’t necessarily cooks, but they know how to get what they want and need into their mouths. They aren’t satisfied with something that is given to them either, they must doctor everything up somehow by adding this or that.
Las Cebollitas
I think this is how this amazing condiment came about. He made it in the kitchen while we were waiting for lunch one day, as he normally enters 30 minutes before the meal is served and fixes something up based on what he sees around him. All of us fell in love with these “Cebollitas“, or onions, and starting adding them to our condiment spread at meals. All you do is thinly slice a white onion, either in half moons, or quartered moons, so that they are as thin as paper. Place them in a small bowl and add thinly sliced jalapeno peppers, seeds and all. Pour over some lime juice and olive oil and season with salt. The quantities are based on your own taste, but you will need about 2 limes for 1/4 of an onion, and about 1 tablespoon olive oil or so. I really can’t imagine measuring the amounts, because an occurrista wouldn’t, and this is an occurrista’s recipe.
This is great over grilled fish, chicken, and meat. It goes well in burritos, on tacos, as a garnish on veggies or soups.
Filed under: Recipes | Tags: atun, fusion Mexican, Mexican, Mexicanrecipes, Quesadilla, simplemexican, Sophia Brittan, tortillas, Tuna
Every year we celebrate Christmas and New Years in Los Cabos, Baja California. My uncle and aunt moved here when they were recently married, and we have all been coming out to visit them for so long, that now it is like a second home to me. I really love being here. Even though there is a lot to do, the best moments are when the whole family is together and we just do nothing.
Tuna and marlin are big here in Cabo, and many people visit the peninsula just for the sport fishing that is available. There are also amazing bass, clams, scallops, and abalone. As you can tell, it is all about fish here. While we are here, we usually just stick to fish tacos from Tacos Rossi, homemade ceviche, and sushi. The sushi here is the best that I have ever had. The Mexican ingredients (cilantro, chile, avocado, mango), combined with the freshness of the fish, compliment the Japanese technique perfectly.
Tuna Melt a lo Mexicano
On a recent fishing trip this past Fall, my uncle caught 23 tuna with a friend who was visiting. They ate the fresh tuna for a week straight and froze the rest for the Winter. So yesterday for lunch my aunt made a fresh tuna salad in which she boiled the tuna in water and then mixed it with onion, celery, salt, pepper, and little bit of mayonnaise. The result was delicious- no canned tuna can compare to the real deal. We had a big tub of this tuna salad in our fridge, and there was no way I was going to leave the house for lunch today. I forgot to mention along the way that I am a tuna freak. I decided to make a Mexican-style tuna melt. I don’t usually eat tuna melts in the States, because I am very picky about how my tuna salad is prepared, and I dislike greasy sandwiches. But today I obviously found myself in a very unique situation. We had freshly made flour tortillas in the fridge (Mexico rocks) and cheese galore, and I knew that nothing could go wrong. So I heated up a tortilla in a pan and put a few pieces of thinly sliced Manchego cheese on top. Mexican manchego is different than the manchego from Spain, as it is much milder and easier to melt. I kept the heat low, so that the tortilla would not become hard, but that the cheese would melt. Then I spooned on the tuna salad, and finally added thinly sliced tomatoes and a little bit of avocado to top it off.
My parents and sister were not going to eat lunch at home, they were going to get fish tacos from Rossi. But right as I was putting everything away they arrived at the house hungry. I made the tuna quesadillas for everyone, and they all had 2. My dad said it was better than a fish taco, and even said that I should sell them! He is my biggest fan. I wanted to post this, because you can all poach your own fresh tuna at home and make this same thing, or you can use canned tuna and make your own tuna salad. The point is that it is a fun Mexican riff on an American classic. I would be curious to know what types of cheeses people use for these, and what other things they think go well in them.
!Buen Provecho!
Filed under: Recipes | Tags: Mexican, fusion Mexican, Sophia Brittan, simplemexican, Mexicanrecipes, pumpkin seeds, cabbage, kohlrabi
You might not think that this salad is Mexican, but I had something similar at a Mexican restaurant the other night and was inspired to post it. Actually, the more that I think about it, the less Mexican it seems. Here goes nothing. . .
This past Summer in Oregon, we visited an organic farm on the coast. The farmer there told us that she ate kohlrabi cut in a julienne on her tacos, as if it were jicama. That idea seemed genius to me. The other night my friend and I went for dinner to a Mexican restaurant here in the city. I ordered a side dish made with raw sliced cabbage, jicama, and cucumber tossed with sesame oil and toasted pumpkin seeds. We couldn’t get over how delicious it was, and I really wanted to post a salad like that on this blog. I wanted to use kohlrabi instead of jicama, because it is a local vegetable with a similar texture and flavor. They are both crispy and refreshing. I decided to steam the cabbage for my version, because I love the dreamy color of purple cabbage when it is cooked.
Cabbage, Kohlrabi, and Carrot Salad
You do not really need to measure much. I peeled 1 large carrot, 1 bulb of kohlrabi, and removed the outer layers of the purple cabbage. I only used half the cabbage head and saved the rest for later. I sliced the cabbage very thinly, and then grated the carrot and kohlrabi with a cheese grater. I steamed everything lightly together and seasoned it with salt and pepper. I then transferred them to a large bowl, where I tossed them with apple cider vinegar, lime juice, and walnut oil (you can use olive oil or sesame oil). I then added a couple tablespoons of toasted pumpkin seeds. This is a simple side dish that is light, but appropriate for Winter. It makes a large quantity, which is enough for 4 people, and maybe more than that. It is always nice to have a bit leftover for lunch the next day.
Filed under: Recipes | Tags: canned tomato salsa, enchiladas, healthymexican, Mexican, turkey
On Sunday morning we had a Mexican brunch with some friends of ours and made Turkey Enchiladas. I was eager to put the leftover turkey into something Mexican, as my grandmother was in town from Mexico City and I always learn something new from her cooking. She is a little worker bee and loves to be helpful around the house, especially in the kitchen. My mom was in charge of the menu planning, and my grandmother was the executioner of the whole project, so I cannot take any credit for what went down. I can only vouch for the beans, which I bought from Cayuga Pure Organics, and which I helped season. A pretty lousy performance on my part, but sometimes it’s nice when Tita and mommy cook instead.
Enchiladas is a dish that uses up old tortillas and meat. You basically fry the tortillas in oil to soften them, fill them with your meat of choice, roll them up, place in a baking dish, and pour the sauce over them. You then top the dish with cheese and bake in the oven. The possibilities for Enchiladas are endless because you can use whatever meat, salsa, and cheese combination that tickles your fancy. I am going to share with you the simple tomato sauce that we used, because it was a canned tomato sauce that was very easy to put together. This is a great salsa for Winter when fresh tomatoes are not available.
Turkey Enchiladas
Tomato Salsa
2 28-ounce cans of diced tomatoes
1/4 cup diced white onion
1- 2 jalapeno chile peppers (depends on how spicy they are)
1 clove garlic
Oil
Cilantro (a few sprigs)
Salt and a pinch of sugar (if necessary)
Blend the canned tomatoes, onion, chile, and garlic in a blender until smooth. Heat up a tablespoon or so of oil up in a large saucepan and add the contents of the blender. Bring to a simmer, add the cilantro, and cook for about 20 minutes or so, until it is at the flavor and thickness you like. Remove the cilantro sprigs before serving. My grandmother adds a little bit of sugar if she thinks the salsa is too acidic.
Makes about 4 cups.
We used queso cotija as the topping, as well as thinly sliced onion for the garnish.
Buen Provecho!
Filed under: Culture | Tags: casseroledish, chicken, corn, day of the dead, halloween, healthymexican, lard, Mexicanrecipes, poblano, tamales
This past weekend my sister, her fiancée, and I threw a Halloween/Día de los Muertos party. We set up a little altar with candles, calaveras, and saints, and made some Mexican food to go along with the theme. I made a Tamal de Cazuela, which is a Mexican tamal casserole dish. The casserole is made by layering masa with a filling of choice and then more masa in a dish, and baking it in the oven for about an hour. It is kind of like a Mexican lasagna. You can make a Tamal de Cazuela with basically any combination of vegetables and meats that you would like, as well as green or red sauces to go along. It is much easier to make than tamales, which are individually wrapped in corn husks and steamed. Emma and I actually made a Tamal de Cazuela last year for our Dia de los Muertos episode. I honestly had not realized that I was repeating the same dish until recently. The dish just makes perfect sense for familiar gatherings- its comforting, delicious, and easy to serve.
The secret to the Tamal de Cazuela is the ingredients of course. For the party I made two different kinds; one with chicken and guajillo sauce, and one with Queso Oaxaca and roasted poblano peppers. The masa requires corn flour that is specially prepared to make tamales. I bought mine at a Mexican panaderia on 110th and Lexington, but you can find it at most Latin food markets. I also used Flying Pigs Farm Lard, which in my opinion makes a huge difference in flavor. Lard is a healthier fat than butter or vegetable shortening, and if bought from sustainable farms, has incredible flavor and quality. For last year’s dish, Emma and I had opted to use olive oil as the fat for the dish. Either one is fine. For the chicken filled casserole, I bought a whole chicken and made a broth from scratch, along with some carrots, onions, celery, and aromatics. I then shredded the cooked chicken to use as the filling, and used the broth to flavor the masa as well. All of these little steps might seem trivial, but they make a really big difference in flavor. The recipe that I used for the party was from Rick Bayless’s Mexican Kitchen. If you want another good recipe, check out last year’s Kitchen Caravan episode.
Filed under: Recipes | Tags: appledessert, apples, cajeta, goatmilk, Mexican, mexican dessert, mexican recipes, pecans, simplemexican
Manzanas con Cajeta y Nuez
Apples with Cajeta and Pecans
This is not so much a recipe, but a simple preparation that makes for a delicious Autumn dessert. Pecans and cajeta go so well together. I was first introduced to the combination when Emma and I were in Valle de Bravo last January. My aunt Lupita (whose new nickname is Guadalajira) taught us a simple dessert, which was just campechanas topped with vanilla ice cream, cajeta, and pecans. Campechanas in Valle are flaky and crunchy pastries similar in texture to a baked puffed pastry or phyllo. The word “campechana” is used for other foods in other areas. Although it is so easy to put together, the dish feels like one of the most indulgent things you can allow yourself. And you should indeed allow yourself!
Because I don’t want to put together such an indulgent dessert if I am eating alone, I came up with something a little lighter, but to the same effect. All this preparation requires is thinly sliced apples (I prefer green varieties like Ginger Golds or Granny Smiths) topped with cajeta and toasted pecans. You will need 1 apple for 2 people, 2 tablespoons of cajeta (max!), and 2 tablespoons of nuts. Each ingredient goes a long way. It is as simple as it looks, but there are a few things I should mention. Apples turn brown if they are cut and left out. So if you are going to make this for anyone but yourself, be sure to slice them right before serving, or keep them in water with a few squeezes of lemon juice in the fridge. Toast the pecans an allow them to cool before chopping them up. They will not be as crunchy and provide a nice textural difference to the cajeta if you chop them right after toasting, or if you don’t toast at all.
I love the crunch of the fresh apples, which is slightly sweet and slightly sour. The cajeta is what makes this dessert, as it is rich and indulgent, but a little goes a long way. And the nuts add more crunch and depth to this. You will love this simple preparation with Fall’s favorite fruit!
Filed under: Recipes | Tags: healthymexican, mexican recipes, poblano peppers, portabello, Sophia Brittan, tacos
It has been a long time since my last post. I feel like Autumn is slipping through my fingers- all of the sudden we are at the end of October! I have been cooking a lot, but have not had a chance to experiment with some of the Mexican recipes that I have on my mind. This is a super simple dish using two ingredients that I constantly find winking at me every time I go to the farmers market: poblano peppers and portabello mushrooms.
I love poblano peppers, because they are slightly spicy, but also a bit bitter. And mushrooms are magical. I don’t ever seem to crave mushrooms, but when I am actually eating them I can never get enough. Poblanos and portabellos go surprisingly well together, and are further accentuated by the yogurt cheese I add in at the end. It is quite difficult, if not impossible, to find Mexican Manchego cheese here in New York. I often sub in a mild goat milk gouda for my Mexican recipes, but today I used a simple yogurt cheese. I think that it most closely compares to Manchego, with an ever-so-slight sharpness that sits so happily inside a tortilla.
This is actually a fajita-style dish, where the ingredients are quickly seared together in a pan, and then eaten in a taco. Did you know that? The verb is taquear, and you taquea the contents of the pan, which is the fajita part. Cool, right?
Poblano & Portabello Tacos
Portabello & Poblano Tacos
1 poblano pepper, trimmed and rinsed
1 tablespoon lard or sunflower seed oil
½ red onion
2 portabello mushrooms
½ cup vegetable or chicken broth
¼ cup chopped or shredded yogurt cheese or mild gouda or manchego
4 corn tortillas
Roast the poblano pepper over an open gas flame or in a hot oven until charred on all sides. Remove from heat and place in a paper bag or in a bowl covered with a towel for 15 minutes. When the pepper is cool enough to handle, peel off the skin. Remove the top, de-vein, and then slice into thin strips. Meanwhile, slice the onion across in thick strips. Heat up the lard in a skillet until smoking and add the onion. Season with a little salt and keep moving the onion around. Slice the portabello in half, and then in thick strips, similar in size to the onion. Add to the pan and toss. Add the vegetable broth, which should immediately simmer, and cover. When the mushroom is just about cooked through and most of the liquid has been absorbed, add the poblano pieces. Heat up the tortillas and top with the sautéed vegetables and cheese.
Serve with a red table salsa like Valentina or Salsa Bufalo.
Serves 2 people with 2 tacos each.
Filed under: Recipes
Scallions usually play a supportive role in most dishes. They are used to provide a light oniony flavor, without taking any attention away from other more powerful ingredients. I had always associated scallions with Asian cuisine, and almost exclusively used them in such preparations. But that all changed after a shrimp and scallion ceviche I ate in Old San Juan two years ago. I loved the intensity that came with all of the green part used alongside the white. It was intense, but not overwhelming. It had a strong onion flavor, but stripped of what makes me beg for a good mouthwash after eating white or red onions. Ever since that ceviche, I have used the dark green of the scallion in many of my dishes, and more often than not, it takes center stage in the recipe.
Tomato Scallion Salsa
This recipe is the perfect example of the scallion’s glory. It is simple: the juice of 2 limes (more or less), about 10 halved cherry tomatoes, a hefty sprinkle of salt, 1/2 teaspoon minced jalapeno, and 4 scallions tips cut off and sliced thin almost the entire length of the vegetable. Tomatoes love salt and lime juice, and the acidity of both really mellows out and matches the flavor of the scallions. In the photo you can see that I added the kernels of a raw ear of corn, but that was extra. This salsa is awesome on top of sauteed shrimp in corn tortilla tacos. It does not need much else, but of course, I encourage you to indulge in what occurs to you in the creative process that is cooking.
Filed under: Recipes
I was inspired to make this salad when I started noticing that many of my favorite Summer things came wrapped in a husk. Tomatillos, cape gooseberries, and sweet Summer corn all come under a thin papery covering. I thought that they seemed to have a natural connection, which would automatically make them delicious together. I decided to make a salad, since that is what I love to eat the most in the Summertime.
Black beans give this recipe substance, while also adding a gorgeous deep purple hue. Tomatillos are used in two different ways: cooked and blended with cilantro, vinegar, and olive oil; and thinly sliced. Tomatillos have a really nice acidic flavor which allows them to work a sweet and sour dynamic with the cape gooseberries.
This recipe is vegetarian/vegan, full of fiber, gluten-free and delicious. Although it is not pictured, serve these with Ezekiel sprouted corn tortillas, which add more nutrition and color.
Black Bean & Husk Salad
Black Bean and Husk Salad
4 tomatillos, husked
1 can black beans, rinsed and drained
½ cup cape gooseberries, husked and halved
1 ear of corn, husked
¼ jalapeño pepper, sliced thinly
¼ red onion, medium dice
¼ cup packed cilantro, rinsed and roughly chopped
2 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
Salt and pepper
Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Boil the tomatillos for about 10 minutes and drain.
Slice 2 of the tomatillos into thin wedges, about 6 pieces each.
Set the onion in a small bowl covered with water for about 10 minutes and drain.
Slice the corn kernels off the cob and then reverse the blade of the knife to get out the milk.
In a medium bowl toss together the black beans, cape gooseberries, corn kernels and juice, jalapeño, and red onion.
Quarter the remaining 2 tomatillos and blend with the olive oil, vinegar, and salt and pepper. Add the cilantro and keep blending.
Pour the tomatillo sauce over the rest of the ingredients and toss.
Serve with sprouted corn tortillas.
Serves four.
Filed under: Recipes | Tags: beans, frijoles, healthymexican, Mexican, Sophia Brittan
Last year when Emma and I went up to Ithaca to film with Eve’s Cidery, we discovered Cayuga Pure Organics, a farm specializing in the cultivation of a variety of dry beans and whole grains. I bought two hefty bags of black turtle beans to have on hand for Winter. It was not long after that I discovered the magic of local beans. You might think a bean is just a bean, but an organic local variety is of much higher quality than a regular store-bought bean. I cannot explain that difference, because it is something quite subtle and visceral, but you are more than welcome to see for yourself.
This year Cayuga Pure Organics is selling their beans and some spelt at the Greenmarket here in New York City, and I am pleased to be able buy the beans in smaller quantities as I need them. The other day my cousin, who is visiting from Mexico, was quite homesick and wanted quesadillas. I decided to pair up the quesadilla with some black beans and try my hand at making this Mexican household staple. I think I came up with a great recipe, because her response after having tried them was “te la volaste”. Which is a good thing.
The secret to good black beans is a good base. I used local lard, local dried epazote, and some chile ancho powder. I used to be opposed to eating lard until I read In Defense of Food by Michael Pollan. I also had to adjust my opposition to pork fat while in Tuscany, where they eat lard drizzled with olive oil. What I discovered with cooking with local lard is that it makes whatever you are cooking turn into something like crack, or any other addictive drug. I say this lightheartedly, because I have never tried it, but if crack were to taste like something, it might taste like my black beans.
Anyway, I figure that a little fat to melt the onion and give it some flavor can’t be bad, and I still would call these beans healthy. We ate these with Ezekiel sprouted tortillas and some goat gouda grated on top. Delicioso!
Frijoles Negros, Mexican Black Beans
Frijoles Negros
1 cup black beans, soaked for 1 hour (soaked for 4 hours or longer if not local)
½ white onion, small dice
1 tablespoon lard
½ teaspoon cumin (for eliminating gas)
Hefty sprinkle of epazote (for flavor and for eliminating gas also)*
Pinch of chile ancho powder (for a hint of smoky sweet flavor)
4 cups water
Splash of apple cider vinegar (to stop the cooking)
Melt the lard in a medium-sized pot. Add the onion and cook through, stirring gently. You don’t want to give the onions much color at all, just cook them until they are translucent.
Drain the black beans of their soaking liquid and place in the pot with the onion. Add the water and bring to a gentle boil. If you boil the water too vigorously it will harden the beans. Turn the heat down to a simmer and add the cumin, epazote, and chile ancho powder.
Cook until the beans are soft to the bite and have a nice pool of rich liquid around them (you might have to add more water if they get too dry).
Add a small splash of apple cider vinegar to stop the beans from cooking, remove from the heat, and serve with warm tortillas and shredded cheese.
Makes 2 cups.
*Epazote is a Mexican herb often used in black beans. I found some at the farmers market, but I have also seen it cold dry in the Mexican section of grocery stores.
