Filed under: Culture | Tags: casseroledish, chicken, corn, day of the dead, halloween, healthymexican, lard, Mexicanrecipes, poblano, tamales
This past weekend my sister, her fiancée, and I threw a Halloween/Día de los Muertos party. We set up a little altar with candles, calaveras, and saints, and made some Mexican food to go along with the theme. I made a Tamal de Cazuela, which is a Mexican tamal casserole dish. The casserole is made by layering masa with a filling of choice and then more masa in a dish, and baking it in the oven for about an hour. It is kind of like a Mexican lasagna. You can make a Tamal de Cazuela with basically any combination of vegetables and meats that you would like, as well as green or red sauces to go along. It is much easier to make than tamales, which are individually wrapped in corn husks and steamed. Emma and I actually made a Tamal de Cazuela last year for our Dia de los Muertos episode. I honestly had not realized that I was repeating the same dish until recently. The dish just makes perfect sense for familiar gatherings- its comforting, delicious, and easy to serve.
The secret to the Tamal de Cazuela is the ingredients of course. For the party I made two different kinds; one with chicken and guajillo sauce, and one with Queso Oaxaca and roasted poblano peppers. The masa requires corn flour that is specially prepared to make tamales. I bought mine at a Mexican panaderia on 110th and Lexington, but you can find it at most Latin food markets. I also used Flying Pigs Farm Lard, which in my opinion makes a huge difference in flavor. Lard is a healthier fat than butter or vegetable shortening, and if bought from sustainable farms, has incredible flavor and quality. For last year’s dish, Emma and I had opted to use olive oil as the fat for the dish. Either one is fine. For the chicken filled casserole, I bought a whole chicken and made a broth from scratch, along with some carrots, onions, celery, and aromatics. I then shredded the cooked chicken to use as the filling, and used the broth to flavor the masa as well. All of these little steps might seem trivial, but they make a really big difference in flavor. The recipe that I used for the party was from Rick Bayless’s Mexican Kitchen. If you want another good recipe, check out last year’s Kitchen Caravan episode.
Filed under: Recipes | Tags: appledessert, apples, cajeta, goatmilk, Mexican, mexican dessert, mexican recipes, pecans, simplemexican
Manzanas con Cajeta y Nuez
Apples with Cajeta and Pecans
This is not so much a recipe, but a simple preparation that makes for a delicious Autumn dessert. Pecans and cajeta go so well together. I was first introduced to the combination when Emma and I were in Valle de Bravo last January. My aunt Lupita (whose new nickname is Guadalajira) taught us a simple dessert, which was just campechanas topped with vanilla ice cream, cajeta, and pecans. Campechanas in Valle are flaky and crunchy pastries similar in texture to a baked puffed pastry or phyllo. The word “campechana” is used for other foods in other areas. Although it is so easy to put together, the dish feels like one of the most indulgent things you can allow yourself. And you should indeed allow yourself!
Because I don’t want to put together such an indulgent dessert if I am eating alone, I came up with something a little lighter, but to the same effect. All this preparation requires is thinly sliced apples (I prefer green varieties like Ginger Golds or Granny Smiths) topped with cajeta and toasted pecans. You will need 1 apple for 2 people, 2 tablespoons of cajeta (max!), and 2 tablespoons of nuts. Each ingredient goes a long way. It is as simple as it looks, but there are a few things I should mention. Apples turn brown if they are cut and left out. So if you are going to make this for anyone but yourself, be sure to slice them right before serving, or keep them in water with a few squeezes of lemon juice in the fridge. Toast the pecans an allow them to cool before chopping them up. They will not be as crunchy and provide a nice textural difference to the cajeta if you chop them right after toasting, or if you don’t toast at all.
I love the crunch of the fresh apples, which is slightly sweet and slightly sour. The cajeta is what makes this dessert, as it is rich and indulgent, but a little goes a long way. And the nuts add more crunch and depth to this. You will love this simple preparation with Fall’s favorite fruit!
Filed under: Recipes | Tags: healthymexican, mexican recipes, poblano peppers, portabello, Sophia Brittan, tacos
It has been a long time since my last post. I feel like Autumn is slipping through my fingers- all of the sudden we are at the end of October! I have been cooking a lot, but have not had a chance to experiment with some of the Mexican recipes that I have on my mind. This is a super simple dish using two ingredients that I constantly find winking at me every time I go to the farmers market: poblano peppers and portabello mushrooms.
I love poblano peppers, because they are slightly spicy, but also a bit bitter. And mushrooms are magical. I don’t ever seem to crave mushrooms, but when I am actually eating them I can never get enough. Poblanos and portabellos go surprisingly well together, and are further accentuated by the yogurt cheese I add in at the end. It is quite difficult, if not impossible, to find Mexican Manchego cheese here in New York. I often sub in a mild goat milk gouda for my Mexican recipes, but today I used a simple yogurt cheese. I think that it most closely compares to Manchego, with an ever-so-slight sharpness that sits so happily inside a tortilla.
This is actually a fajita-style dish, where the ingredients are quickly seared together in a pan, and then eaten in a taco. Did you know that? The verb is taquear, and you taquea the contents of the pan, which is the fajita part. Cool, right?
Poblano & Portabello Tacos
Portabello & Poblano Tacos
1 poblano pepper, trimmed and rinsed
1 tablespoon lard or sunflower seed oil
½ red onion
2 portabello mushrooms
½ cup vegetable or chicken broth
¼ cup chopped or shredded yogurt cheese or mild gouda or manchego
4 corn tortillas
Roast the poblano pepper over an open gas flame or in a hot oven until charred on all sides. Remove from heat and place in a paper bag or in a bowl covered with a towel for 15 minutes. When the pepper is cool enough to handle, peel off the skin. Remove the top, de-vein, and then slice into thin strips. Meanwhile, slice the onion across in thick strips. Heat up the lard in a skillet until smoking and add the onion. Season with a little salt and keep moving the onion around. Slice the portabello in half, and then in thick strips, similar in size to the onion. Add to the pan and toss. Add the vegetable broth, which should immediately simmer, and cover. When the mushroom is just about cooked through and most of the liquid has been absorbed, add the poblano pieces. Heat up the tortillas and top with the sautéed vegetables and cheese.
Serve with a red table salsa like Valentina or Salsa Bufalo.
Serves 2 people with 2 tacos each.
Filed under: Recipes
Scallions usually play a supportive role in most dishes. They are used to provide a light oniony flavor, without taking any attention away from other more powerful ingredients. I had always associated scallions with Asian cuisine, and almost exclusively used them in such preparations. But that all changed after a shrimp and scallion ceviche I ate in Old San Juan two years ago. I loved the intensity that came with all of the green part used alongside the white. It was intense, but not overwhelming. It had a strong onion flavor, but stripped of what makes me beg for a good mouthwash after eating white or red onions. Ever since that ceviche, I have used the dark green of the scallion in many of my dishes, and more often than not, it takes center stage in the recipe.
Tomato Scallion Salsa
This recipe is the perfect example of the scallion’s glory. It is simple: the juice of 2 limes (more or less), about 10 halved cherry tomatoes, a hefty sprinkle of salt, 1/2 teaspoon minced jalapeno, and 4 scallions tips cut off and sliced thin almost the entire length of the vegetable. Tomatoes love salt and lime juice, and the acidity of both really mellows out and matches the flavor of the scallions. In the photo you can see that I added the kernels of a raw ear of corn, but that was extra. This salsa is awesome on top of sauteed shrimp in corn tortilla tacos. It does not need much else, but of course, I encourage you to indulge in what occurs to you in the creative process that is cooking.
Filed under: Recipes
I was inspired to make this salad when I started noticing that many of my favorite Summer things came wrapped in a husk. Tomatillos, cape gooseberries, and sweet Summer corn all come under a thin papery covering. I thought that they seemed to have a natural connection, which would automatically make them delicious together. I decided to make a salad, since that is what I love to eat the most in the Summertime.
Black beans give this recipe substance, while also adding a gorgeous deep purple hue. Tomatillos are used in two different ways: cooked and blended with cilantro, vinegar, and olive oil; and thinly sliced. Tomatillos have a really nice acidic flavor which allows them to work a sweet and sour dynamic with the cape gooseberries.
This recipe is vegetarian/vegan, full of fiber, gluten-free and delicious. Although it is not pictured, serve these with Ezekiel sprouted corn tortillas, which add more nutrition and color.
Black Bean & Husk Salad
Black Bean and Husk Salad
4 tomatillos, husked
1 can black beans, rinsed and drained
½ cup cape gooseberries, husked and halved
1 ear of corn, husked
¼ jalapeño pepper, sliced thinly
¼ red onion, medium dice
¼ cup packed cilantro, rinsed and roughly chopped
2 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
Salt and pepper
Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Boil the tomatillos for about 10 minutes and drain.
Slice 2 of the tomatillos into thin wedges, about 6 pieces each.
Set the onion in a small bowl covered with water for about 10 minutes and drain.
Slice the corn kernels off the cob and then reverse the blade of the knife to get out the milk.
In a medium bowl toss together the black beans, cape gooseberries, corn kernels and juice, jalapeño, and red onion.
Quarter the remaining 2 tomatillos and blend with the olive oil, vinegar, and salt and pepper. Add the cilantro and keep blending.
Pour the tomatillo sauce over the rest of the ingredients and toss.
Serve with sprouted corn tortillas.
Serves four.
Filed under: Recipes | Tags: beans, frijoles, healthymexican, Mexican, Sophia Brittan
Last year when Emma and I went up to Ithaca to film with Eve’s Cidery, we discovered Cayuga Pure Organics, a farm specializing in the cultivation of a variety of dry beans and whole grains. I bought two hefty bags of black turtle beans to have on hand for Winter. It was not long after that I discovered the magic of local beans. You might think a bean is just a bean, but an organic local variety is of much higher quality than a regular store-bought bean. I cannot explain that difference, because it is something quite subtle and visceral, but you are more than welcome to see for yourself.
This year Cayuga Pure Organics is selling their beans and some spelt at the Greenmarket here in New York City, and I am pleased to be able buy the beans in smaller quantities as I need them. The other day my cousin, who is visiting from Mexico, was quite homesick and wanted quesadillas. I decided to pair up the quesadilla with some black beans and try my hand at making this Mexican household staple. I think I came up with a great recipe, because her response after having tried them was “te la volaste”. Which is a good thing.
The secret to good black beans is a good base. I used local lard, local dried epazote, and some chile ancho powder. I used to be opposed to eating lard until I read In Defense of Food by Michael Pollan. I also had to adjust my opposition to pork fat while in Tuscany, where they eat lard drizzled with olive oil. What I discovered with cooking with local lard is that it makes whatever you are cooking turn into something like crack, or any other addictive drug. I say this lightheartedly, because I have never tried it, but if crack were to taste like something, it might taste like my black beans.
Anyway, I figure that a little fat to melt the onion and give it some flavor can’t be bad, and I still would call these beans healthy. We ate these with Ezekiel sprouted tortillas and some goat gouda grated on top. Delicioso!
Frijoles Negros, Mexican Black Beans
Frijoles Negros
1 cup black beans, soaked for 1 hour (soaked for 4 hours or longer if not local)
½ white onion, small dice
1 tablespoon lard
½ teaspoon cumin (for eliminating gas)
Hefty sprinkle of epazote (for flavor and for eliminating gas also)*
Pinch of chile ancho powder (for a hint of smoky sweet flavor)
4 cups water
Splash of apple cider vinegar (to stop the cooking)
Melt the lard in a medium-sized pot. Add the onion and cook through, stirring gently. You don’t want to give the onions much color at all, just cook them until they are translucent.
Drain the black beans of their soaking liquid and place in the pot with the onion. Add the water and bring to a gentle boil. If you boil the water too vigorously it will harden the beans. Turn the heat down to a simmer and add the cumin, epazote, and chile ancho powder.
Cook until the beans are soft to the bite and have a nice pool of rich liquid around them (you might have to add more water if they get too dry).
Add a small splash of apple cider vinegar to stop the beans from cooking, remove from the heat, and serve with warm tortillas and shredded cheese.
Makes 2 cups.
*Epazote is a Mexican herb often used in black beans. I found some at the farmers market, but I have also seen it cold dry in the Mexican section of grocery stores.
Filed under: Recipes
I don’t know how this recipe creeped into my head. I think I was reading about the typical feta/watermelon combos that appear every Summer, and simultaneously studying a tamal book. The sauces, cheese, and watermelon soon coalesced into one unstoppable urge to cook. The sauce is spicy, the cheese is mild and sweet, and the watermelon is refreshing.
Watermelon, Queso Fresco, Chipotle Salsa
How you present this dish will depend on the type of queso fresco you buy, as well as the size of the watermelon. You can slice half moons of each the cheese and watermelon, and pair them together to form a circle. Another alternative is to slice the watermelon in wedges, and place on top of a full circle of cheese (pictured). If you get a local queso fresco, which tend to be smaller in size than the commercial brands, you can slice it in smaller rounds and place a few around the watermelon wedge. The idea is to make the dish beautiful and colorful.
You will need:
Choco-Chipotle Salsa (below)
1 watermelon ( you will use very little)
1 12-ounce package queso fresco
Toasted pepitas
Slice the end off the watermelon. Carefully slice a second round off the end in a perfect circle. Cut the round into 8 wedges.
Slice the cheese horizontally into 4 large circles.
Pour the sauce in the bottom of 4 dishes and smooth it out across the whole plate. Place the cheese on top of the salsa, then place a wedge of watermelon on top of the cheese. Garnish with the pepitas, and serve with an extra plate of watermelon.
Makes 4 appetizers.
For Choco-Chipotle Tomatillo Salsa:
Olive oil
½ cup white onion, medium dice
10-12 tomatillos, husked, rinsed, and roughly chopped
2 cloves roasted garlic
2 teaspoons agave nectar
1 chipotle in adobo + 1 teaspoon brine
3 pieces Mexican drinking chocolate bars
1 small handful fresh cilantro, roughly chopped
salt
Heat up 1 or 2 tablespoons olive oil in a medium sized sauté pan. Add the onion and sauté until translucent and lightly browned. Add the tomatillos, along with a large pinch of salt, and cook for another 15 minutes, or until the tomatillos are soft and cooked through.
Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly.
Blend the onion and tomatillo with the remaining ingredients until completely combined.
Pour back into the sauté pan to keep warm.
Filed under: Recipes | Tags: fusion Mexican, Mexican, miso, perilla, Recipes, salmon ceviche, sesame, tahini, taquitos
My least favorite Mexican food is taquitos. Taquitos are tortillas stuffed with chicken that are rolled up and deep fried. We usually top them with crema mexicana and shredded lettuce. Since I am a healthy eater, I really don’t like eating fried food. The chicken inside also always seems too dry for my taste.
This recipe takes the same idea of a rolled taco, but uses a Sesame Leaf instead of a tortilla. These taquitos are truly fusion cuisine! They make a great low-fat summer appetizer with a lot of flavors. The ceviche uses lime and lemon to “cook” the salmon, but then also combines miso, scallions, and tahini to take it other places. You can find Sesame leaves at some farmers markets, or frozen in Asian supermarkets. I love their minty flavor, that is not so overpowering, but just enough to brighten up this ceviche.I love their minty flavor, that is not so overpowering, but just enough to brighten up this ceviche.
Sesame leaves are rich in calcium, manganese, copper, magnesium, and iron. Sesame seeds are a very good source of calcium; they actually have more calcium than milk. If you are avoiding dairy, as we all should, definitely include sesame in your diet. Buen Provecho!
For Salmon Ceviche Marinade:
1 8-ounce wild Alaskan salmon, skinned
Lemon and/or Lime juice to cover, about 3 total
1 clove garlic, smashed
1 tablespoon miso
1 tablespoon olive oil or sesame oil
Mix together the lemon and lime juice, miso, and garlic in a non-reactive container.
Cube the salmon in small dice and add to the marinade. Let the salmon rest for 1-2 hours in the refrigerator.
To finish:
12-16 sesame leaves
2 tablespoons finely chopped scallion (white and pale green parts)
½ teaspoon finely minced Thai bird chile or chile Serrano
1 sprig of mint, finely chopped
Some cilantro leaves, finely chopped
1 tablespoon tahini
½ teaspoon sesame seeds
Taquitos
Place a dollop of the mixture on each leaf and wrap up, starting from narrow end. Secure by carefully pushing the pointy stem through the leaf.
Note: You can also spread a small amount of tahini on the leaf, then dollop with the salmon mixture, without mixing the tablespoon into the salmon ceviche preparation.
Makes 12-16 taquitos.
Filed under: Recipes
Chipotle goes really well with peaches and apricots. Everywhere I look, people are talking about barbecues and grilling, so I thought I would come up with a Mexican version of an American staple. Feel free to add more Chipotle en Adobo, and if you add to much, you can always balance it out with more molasses or sugar. When I made this I poured it over some fresh flounder tacos (that is what is local to me). I topped the tacos with some sprouts for crunch, avocado, and red onion. They were delicious. Let me know if you try it on something spectacular!
Apricot Chipotle Barbecue Sauce
Apricot Chipotle Barbecue Sauce
2 tablespoons sunflower seed oil
1 white onion, sliced
3 cups apricots, pitted and roughly chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 ounce tequila
1 tablespoon chipotle en adobo
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 cup stewed tomatoes with their juices
3 tablespoons molasses
½ cup apple cider vinegar
Salt
In a medium sized pot, heat up a few tablespoons of the oil. Add the onion and cook until cooked through and translucent. Add the garlic and apricots and stir. Pour in the tequila and as it sizzles, scrape up the browned bits in the bottom of the pot. Pour in the vinegar and chipotle and bring to a simmer.
Add the tomato paste, tomatoes, and molasses let simmer lightly for about 30 minutes. Cool enough to put in the food processor, and process until smooth. Pass the sauce through a sieve back into the pot and reduce until thick and flavorful. Season well with salt, and adjust with sugar if necessary.
Makes about 2 cups.
Filed under: Recipes
I am embarrassed about how long it has been since my last entry. I was overwhelmed with Kitchen Caravan work, and then headed across the pond to London for a week, so I have been absent from this blog for about 1 month! I hope this never happens again. I love traveling, but I love to cook even more, so when I can’t get my hands dirty I feel slightly off kilter.
5 de Mayo does not really exist in Mexico as a holiday. The only place where I know that it is celebrated is in Puebla, where a famous battle was won against the French army in 1862. I only know that because I actually went to Puebla last January, and was surprised that the holiday was really celebrated in Mexico. I had always thought it was an American thing.
Since this holiday is really only an excuse to drink (as if we need one), I am providing my newest cocktail. The Rhubarb Margarita. There is nothing more I can really say about this, besides that I hope you enjoy this cocktail on other occasions, and not just today. Celebrate Mexico every day!
The Rhubarb Margarita
The Rhubarb Margarita
2 tablespoons Rhubarb Mixer (see recipe below)
1 ounce tequila
1 juicy lime
Ice
Sugar or Salt-rimmed glasses
For each drink: combine the Rhubarb Mixer, tequila, and lime juice in a martini shaker or stir together in a small bowl. Strain into a salt-rimmed glass and add a cube or two of ice. Delicious!
Rhubarb Mixer:
1 cup thinly sliced rhubarb
3 tablespoons agave nectar
½ cup water
Make the Rhubarb Mixer by placing the sliced rhubarb in a small sauce pan with the water and agave nectar. Bring to a boil, then simmer on low heat until the rhubarb comes apart completely, and the liquid becomes quite syrupy. You should end up with about 1 cup.
